After trying to paint in the chill yesterday, I remained in fetal position throughout half the night until I realized I that was finally not cold any more. And in spite of waking for an hour or two in the middle of the night again, I resolved to be on time for breakfast. Gotcha, Gustavo! When I emerged from my room at 8:45, no one was to be seen. Eric was off to teach something delicious at cooking school, but the sweet Honduran was still sleeping soundly. When we went to the patisserie together, he was caught short, having forgotten his money. Poor guy. I offered to pay, but Madame What’s-Her-Name brushed the issue off with good neighbor credit. J’adore ça!
The other possible distraction de jour was the fact that it was snowing this morning in Arles. Not unheard of, but something I was told only happens about every five years. What luck. For me, of course, it held none of the mystery Augusto found in it, but I tried to back up and revel in his little-boy delight, watching him try to catch it on his tongue. I felt like a father all over again.
For me, snow means a certain degree of cold, but one of my life lessons this thrip is to revel in the moment, whatever that moment has to offer, so I felt the cold, watched the snow fall and photographed Arles in winter for future paintings in my warm, cozy studio back in Ohio.
I haven’t reported much about food, as much as I adore it, so here’s a little siting gastronomique. Walking too and fro today, I passed a tiny, unpretentious place no bigger than our living room, with a sign outside announcing the plats de jour, one being blanquette de veau, which I’ve made but never savored in France. After returning to my room to deposit my knapsack, check mail and rehydrate(isn’t water always an issue when traveling?), I headed back to La Chistera for a worn-red, enameled cassolet of really lovely tasting stew of veal and mushrooms in creamy sauce accompanied by wild rice scooped into a scallop shell(copy that) and a tiny green salad with vinaigrette(11 euro). Washed it all down with a demi of white wine(+7 euro). That makes a mid-day delight for under $25. If ever you’re overcome by any obstacle, especially the cold, I recommend it highly!